Michel Drappier & Vosne-Romanee Le Clos Goillotte

"The one wine that gave me real 'vibrations' was Clos Goillotte from Henri-Frédéric Roch’s Domaine Prieuré Roch in Vosne-Romanée. Roch is the co-owner of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and his signature is on the [DRC] label along with Aubert de Villaine. 

For me, it was a living wine, it was vibrant. Pinot is my world because I did my studies in Burgundy in Beaune, so pinot noir and chardonnay are my varieties.

This 2002 pinot was quite young when I had it – only three years old. The nose was just breathtaking. It was in a very big glass and there was not too much in it. It was not the French way to drink wine, because the French have these stupid small glasses. You know, in Burgundy, the growers have the most beautiful wines on the planet and they have the most awful glasses. This was not the case. I don’t know whether it was a Riedel or something else.

It was in Paris, at Lavinia, the wine shop. When I put my nose in it, I felt like I was sliding into the wine [he swishes from side to side as if on a bobsled]. The aroma was pure pinot. It was the first time and probably the only time where I felt a wine in my veins. 

I had a lot of it because I was at Lavinia’s opening party. My wife was with me and there were many people there chatting, so I went out to the balcony, as it was a quiet place [to appreciate the wine]. That is my memory of the Clos Goillotte – vibration in my veins, and I had lots of it but I wasn’t drunk. It was just pure pleasure.

I actually bought some so I have it in my cellar. I have had it twice since and it was super. It’s still fantastic. It’s maybe declining a bit now as it is unfiltered, organic wine and it may not last forever. It has not been made to last, I don’t think."

As told to Rebecca Gibb

Fast Facts from Wine-Searcher's search engine:

2002 Domaine Prieure Roch Vosne-Romanée Le Clos Goillotte

• Grape variety: Pinot noir
• Average price: $156
• Peak average price: $296 in July 2008
• Available from: Three merchants in two countries.