Amarone Back with a Bang in 2015
Several dozen soon-to-be-released examples of Amarone from the 2015 vintage that were recently offered for tasting in Verona displayed the character and richness one comes to expect from a successful vintage. Better yet, numerous producers crafted versions from this year that displayed a bit of a lighter, more elegant feel that can only broaden the appeal of this iconic wine in markets around the world.
That the growing season in 2015 was highly successful was great news for Amarone producers following the challenging 2014 conditions in Valpolicella, which saw too much rain along with cool conditions that did not result in ideal ripeness; one producer told me that 2014 was "the most difficult year experienced in more than 40 years". Thus, many smiles welcomed the beneficial weather of 2015 in the area. "It was a really good vintage," notes Gabriele Righetti of I Vigneti di Ettore. "We had some rain early on, followed by several dry weeks, which was ideal for the grapes."
Tiziano Accordini, proprietor/winemaker of the Stefano Accordini winery in Fumane, is enthusiastic, too. "Vintage 2015 is a perfect vintage with a very good spring, good summer and very importantly, a little rain during June and July, with temperatures that were not too high. It's very important during these months, there was good temperature excursion, day and night. In the end, it was a perfect harvest with perfect harvest time, during September and October."
Most producers compared the vintage to 2011, with similar conditions of moderate rain and warm temperatures. There is also some similarity with the Amarones from 2013, although the examples from 2015 are not as intense, but have overall better acidity and elegance. The best examples of 2015 Amarone are outstanding wines, and while it is still early, this may go down as one of the finest vintages for Amarone in the last 10-15 years.
The weather is an important reason why these wines turned out so well, but as Amarone is made in the appassimento process, where the grapes are naturally dried in temperature and humidity-controlled rooms for approximately three months, this is a highly distinctive wine that routinely bears the signature not only of the origin of the grapes, but the practices in the cellar as well. The length of appassimento determines a certain amount of sweetness – residual sugar – in the wine,as well as a particular mouthfeel. At alcohol levels ranging from 15.5-16.5 percent, Amarone is unquestionably a powerful offering, but the task for the enologist is to not release a monster wine to the market. "We prefer to avoid a 'Sumo warrior-type' wine because it's not easy to drink," remarks Righetti. "The first glass has to get you through to the second."
Having attended this tasting last year for the 2014 Amarones as well as this year for the 2015s, I can attest to the fact that the latter group of wines are much better balanced, with greater freshness and harmony. Too many of the 2014s were crafted in an old-fashioned, sweet, heavy style that was awkward and not well balanced; yes, Amarone will never be categorized as delicate, but higher alcohol does not have to equate to over-the-top wines that seem more like a monument than something meant to be served at the dinner table.
Among the most elegant and well-structured examples of the 2015 Amarones were the I Vigneti di Ettore and the Ca' La Bionda Vigneti di Ravazzòl. Both of these wines are aged in mid- to large-sized casks, ranging from 500 to 3000 liters; barriques (225 liters) are not employed at these wineries. For their versions of Amarone, both producers source grapes from estate vineyards planted in the pergola system where the canopy is overhead, meaning the clusters are shielded from too much sunlight; this results in a longer maturation time and most importantly, wine with higher acidity levels that offer great freshness and balance.
Another traditionally aged 2015 Amarone that showed extremely well was the Sartori, with appealing perfumes of red roses and carnations, while two barrel samples from Marinella Camerani displayed rich maraschino cherry and currant aromas backed by impressive richness on the palate and excellent persistence. The Giovanni Ederle, a winery that I was not familiar with, was quite lovely with bright red fruit and very good acidity.
The Acinatico from Stefano Accordini is another great success in 2015, with its alluring cherry and clove aromas and admirable structure. I would nominate Stefano Accordini as one of the very best producers of Amarone – he even crafted a prominent Acinatico from the 2014 vintage, no small task. Incidentally, his riserva Amarone labeled "Il Fornetto" was not available for tasting at this event, but given the track record of this paticular wine – this is among the top ten of all Amarone offerings with every bottling, in my experience – the wine should be one to look for when it is released in a year or two.
So 2015 is a shining success for Amarone; the vintage is excellent and may even be classified as great when the wines show more character in a few years; look for these wines to be released in the spring and summer of this year. Just as importantly, the vintage will be characterized by wines of greater harmony, a clear desire of the producers to give Amarone a more refined identity that should appeal to a greater number of consumers. "Our wine is moving away from the old style," comments Camilla Rossi Chauvenet of Massimago. "There's more fruit evident, and it's quite juicy, and the freshness is more apparent."
Notes on the finest 2015 Amarone:
Outstanding
I Vigneti di Ettore – Rich, ripe black fruit, powerful concentration and great persistence with lively acidity and beautiful harmony.
Ca' La Bionda Vigneti di Ravizzòl – Gorgeous black fruit flavors, rich spice notes and excellent acidity, with impressive structure. This is a 20 year-plus wine.
Excellent
Very Good
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