Wineries Seek Exclusive Appellations
In a world where labels and branding drive trends more than ever, being part of a designated appellation seems like the world's biggest sales advantage for wineries – that is, until it's not. For three European estates, the path to creating their own winery specific appellations hasn't been easy; even unstrategic, perhaps. Though when passion and recognition run high, new paths are carved out – even within the seemingly impossible-to-crack regulations of the European Union.
The most well-known winery exclusive appellation today is DOC Sassicaia, officially created on January 1st, 2014. The winery was first a subzone to the DOC Bolgheri appellation, established twenty years prior, back in 1994. "After a couple of years, in order to further protect the vocation and uniqueness of the wine Sassicaia, an autonomous DOC was established," says Carlo Paoli, Director of Tenuta San Guido. Today, there are currently two co-existing DOCs within the area: DOC Bolgheri, and DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia, the latter of which only encompasses land owned by Tenuta San Guido.
According to Paoli, the initial push to create their own appellation came from a simple desire to better protect Tenuta San Guido's area of production, as well as its world-renowned name, but also, to enhance the winery's image worldwide. "The goal was to reinforce the distinctiveness of its terroir, of its ampelographic base, and of the history initiated by Mario Incisa della Rocchetta," says Paoli. Although the mission was supported by both the Italian Ministry of Agriculture, various public authorities, and other local wineries within the larger Bolgheri DOC, the road to official designation took numerous years.
To start, Tenuta San Guido was required to carry out an agronomic study, conducted by the University of Milan, which meticulously identified every element of microclimates and environmental aspects of the designated area. Paoli then describes that the region of Tuscany and its public authorities had to identify the existing diversity of the potential area to be designated, comparing it with other nearby DOCs. "At the same time, the idea was to give value to the name of a wine which is immediately identified with a certain territory," Paoli notes, concluding that the final step, after years of analysis, required the European Union's final approval for the specification, as well as the approval of "Protection" from the EU of the DOC (PDO – "Protected Designation of Origin and Geographical Indication of Sassicaia").
Today, just shy of its fifth birthday, the DOC Sassicaia comprises 540 hectares, 100 of which are dedicated to vines. As with all other appellations, DOC Sassicaia has its own set of 'production chain' rules, including permitted grapes, blending techniques, vinification styles, use of wood, and designations for packaging and labelling.
Over in Spain, a similar process is taking place at AbadÃa Retuerta Le Domaine, located in the heart of Ribera del Duero. The winery, which has applied for its own Vino de Pago status, under the name DOP Abadia Retuerta, is still waiting approval from European Commission; though if all goes well, the appellation should be its own DO by 2019. Vino de Pago is a unique Spanish classification for specific vineyards/wineries within the country, first introduced to the Spanish appellation system in 2003. Once a winery or vineyard's status is certified as a Vino de Pago, a new DO is created for the designation. Today, there are 17 Vino de Pagos within Spain.
"Since we started replanting this historical vineyard, we were looking for wines with a strong personality that transmit the singularity of our own "terruño" (terroir), the place where they come from," explains Enrique Valero, General Manager of AbadÃa Retuerta Le Domaine. Valero notes that after meticulous studies of the soils, which were formed by the erosion caused by the Duero river over millions of years, coupled with the area's uniquely extreme climate, local varieties, and ancient vines, as well as the knowledge and experience of their team, Abadia Retuerta felt inspired to apply for their own Vino de Pago status.
As in Bolgheri, the process of appellation creation is just as complex in Spain. Abadia Retuerta first presented their application for Vino de Pago status in 2014, which was validated the following year. However, the winery was forced to wait for an official law regulating the Vino de Pago status in Castilla y Leon, which, as of 2018, still had not been published. However, despite the law's lack of official placement, the winery received its approval on both a local and national administrative level, via the Department of Agriculture in Madrid, to continue through with the process.
This same year (2018), the winery received acknowledgement from the European Commission in Brussels, and is currently waiting final approval from the Commission, which is expected to take 8-10 months. History also played a huge role in Abadia Reteurta's application. The winery's location sits at the former monastery of Santa Maria de Retuerta, ideally situated along the banks of the Duero River. Although Abadia Retuerta was created 28 years ago, the winery's history dates back to the 12th Century, comprised of partial pre-phylloxera vines, combining an emphasis on modern vinification and viticultural techniques, including experimentation with indigenous yeasts, gravity flow winemaking, and 'reasoned irrigation.' The winery is also home to Le Domaine, a five-star hotel, as well as a 1-Michelin starred restaurant.
Another Spanish winery taking on the challenges of creating their own DO is Raventós i Blanc, located in the heart of Catalunya. The winery officially left the DO Cava back in 2012, with the hopes of creating their own designation, Conca del riu Anoia. "When we left the DO Cava we took a big risk. Cava is a known brand by itself," explains Pepe Raventós Winemaker and CEO of Raventós i Blanc, "and many people just ask for a Cava." Raventós recalls leaving the Cava DO in November in of that year, quickly needing to reclassify and relabel all of the bottles in his cellar – which he deems a "long and very expensive process."
Raventós explains that the winery's decision to leave the DO caused them to lose some of their monopoles in the Netherlands, and required much convincing on their choice to other importers. Although some were hesitant, Raventós reveals that their colleagues were passionate at the same time. "We had to put a big effort in sales and communication so people understood the move and the new designation," he explains, noting that for the first few years, legal recognition of an official DO was not the focus, simply spreading the word on why they left the DO was more important. "Something is moving in Cava, but no one wants to leave the boat (as it is safe and big for everyone,)" says Raventós, "though for us, it is not real, because it is based in method, not in viticulture." Raventós emphasizes the winery's belief in starting from scratch to focus on new generations and small winegrowers in the area, who highlight the strong potential for Catalunya's sparkling wines.
According to Raventós, the Conca appellation will be even stricter than Champagne, enforcing only organically and biodynamically farmed fruit be used, as well as 18 months minimum of elevage. In addition, wines must be 100 percent estate produced and bottled, crafted from vineyards at least ten years in age. Wines must always have a vintage, as well as state the disgorgement date on bottle. "These would be the strictest wine regulations in the world, including Champagne."
Although creating a winery specific DO boasts its own lists of pros and cons, the former unanimously outweighs the latter amongst the three above wineries. "The advantages are multiple," explains Paoli. "We are not only able to produce a wine which is the only one carrying the name of the DOC it comes from, but also benefit from a greater protection against the risks of counterfeiting, which has nowadays become a problem in every country." For Valero, the pros of elevating the status and recognition of the Duero Valley, as well as creating singularity within the estate's wines, far outweigh the single con of consumer confusion of not fully understanding what a Vino de Pago is.
And for Raventós, the process still awaits. "We don't have a DO; Conca del riu Anoia is just a name, a dream, a path to work on – and we will arrive there. But it takes time." Despite the loss of a few original monopoles, Raventós feels strongly about the representation of the winery's philosophy through its own DO. "I think people now identify us better than before; the way we work, our viticultural methods. And they know we are something different from Cava. This is what is Conca. This is Raventós."
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